3* things to always do with your new puppy/dog
Some of my most recent clients have all had similar but different issues, and they all failed to do these 3 things from the start.
Keep in mind I usually don’t say ALWAYS or NEVER. So when I do, you know I mean it.
Owners should always start out doing some version of these 3 things:
Keep a leash (dragline) on their dog inside and outside
Teach them to go into their crate on cue (and bonus to also wait to exit their crate on cue)
Teach them how to settle (once their needs have been met**)
Starting these 3 things early and staying consistent makes a WORLD of difference. Below is a quick (and I’m sure, incomplete) list of issues owners tend to struggle with who fail to implement the 3 things from above:
Nuisance and/or demand barking
Nipping at your feet
Jumping up
Pacing
Whining in the crate
Resisting going into the crate
Acting skittish when you go to pet them or reach for their collar
Running away from you
Having to trick them into xyz (ie, going into their crate, getting into the car)
Following you from room to room in the house
But WHY are those three things are so important you ask?
1. Keeping a leash on at all times (dragline):
A dog that knows how to yield to a leash is easier to live with. You don’t have to force them into things. They learn how to turn off the leash pressure and they learn what you want them to do. Whether it’s walking with you, leading them into a crate, getting off the furniture, getting into the car, etc.... By using a leash you remove the frustration of them running from you or juking away from your hand when you reach for their collar, or to pick them up.
This is incredibly important for small dog owners. It’s so tempting to pick up small dogs (and puppies) and take them where you want them to go. But think of how you would feel if someone picked you up (often against your will) every time they wanted you to do something if you didn’t understand what they asked on the first try… You would probably be frustrated and learn to be wary of them… maybe not want to cooperate with them, run away from them…..
I have seen the fall out first hand… ranging from issues potty training to bigger issues in trust. Using a drag line makes things so much easier on you and the owner and on your dog/puppy.
I recommend getting the thin rope like leashes from dollar tree, cutting off the handle, and burning the end with a lighter so it doesn’t unravel. This way it’s less likely to get caught on/around objects in the home/yard. It’s also light weight, making it easier to ignore; and at worst, if chewed, it’s cheap to replace. The drag line comes off when they go into the crate, and goes back on once they come out.
The leash can be used to prevent or block your puppy/dog from doing things they shouldn’t. No need to yank and tug on the leash when they’re about to make a mistake, just don’t give them enough leash to allow them, and once they make a better decision, reward them.
2. Crate training
When a dog knows how to go in the crate on command and wait until a free command to exit the crate, you save your relationship from a lot of conflict. You also set the stage for cultivating a calmer state of mind, or at the very least a less anxious loop of busy minds and non-stop bodies.
Too many dogs are taught to go into the crate only when the owner leaves the house or goes to bed. Teach them to go into and out of their crates as a game. Switch up the amount of time you close them in, or if you even close the door at all. Feeding you dog in it is a great way to build a positive association with the crate.
Practice short sessions with you near them building to longer periods. Then graduate to walking out of and back into the room, sitting down, standing up, carrying objects, cleaning, etc…. Change the picture they see, the more the better. Issues can arise if/when the dog sees the crate as the picture of their owner leaving them.
The crate has so many more beneficial than just for confinement at night or when you’re not home. In fact, it’s the first step to #3.
3. Teaching them to settle (if their needs are fulfilled**)
Some trainers call this place training, some call it tethered decompression, some call it calm training…. Call it whatever you want, it’s simply the dog learning they can be still and that sometimes doing nothing, IS doing something.
Teaching them to just chill without chewing a bone, licking a Kong, or being entertained with anything external is overlooked and it’s where most dogs struggle. There’s multiple ways to teach this, but crate training is a great first step that is far too often overlooked.
**I would even add a 4th component to this post…. And that would be play. It’s a broad topic that has a ton of detail and varies with each dogs personality. Play as well as biological fulfillment plays an indisputable role when it comes to a dog behaving or being a nuisance. It is not fair to ask a dog to settle if they haven’t been given an outlet to express some genetic desires & expelled some energy, or in short – be a dog.
This does not mean a tired dog is a good dog, but a dog that is compelled into laying down for hours each day is different than a dog who has had a chance to run, play, sniff, and interact appropriately. I’ve seen the difference of the two first hand. And although having a dog that can hold place for an hour is convenient, having a dog lounge around because it's had it’s needs met and you’ve taught it not to pace around is the picture most dog owners have in their mind. I know I did. I’ll also tell youI feel a lot better with this approach, and surely my dogs would say so too.
These three (*4) things are not the end all be all. There is certainly more that goes into raising a well behaved puppy/dog. However, if these skills are not in corporately early on, you’ll likely be fighting an uphill battle. Building a healthy relationship, establishing cooperation, and building trust is much easier to do when it’s started the right way.
